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KMID : 1145120190170040477
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Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology
2019 Volume.17 No. 4 p.477 ~ p.488
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Development of Functional Cosmetic Material Using a Combination of Hippophae rhamnoides Fruit, Rubus fruticosus Leaf and Perillae folium Leaf Extracts
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Kim Ho-Won
Kim Dong-Sub
Sung Nak-Yun
Han In-Jun
Lee Byung-Soo
Park Sang-Yun
Eom Ji
Suh Ji-Young
Park Ji-Hyun
Yu A-Reum
Kim Jong-Seok
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Abstract
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Purpose: This study aimed to determine the optimal blending ratio of extracts of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) fruit, Rubus fruticosus (R. fruticosus) leaf, and Perillae folium (P. folium) leaf as a potential functional material for antiwrinkle, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening properties.
Methods: We used the design of experiment (DOE) efficacy method to identify the optimal blend ratio for a natural extract complex. In addition, we tested the efficacy of the extract complex and the individual extracts by experiments, including elastase inhibition assay, NO inhibition assay, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and ROS inhibition assay.
Results: DOE methods using natural extracts showed that the most efficacious ratio of H. rhamnoides fruit: R. fruticosus leaf: P. folium leaf was 0.25:0.7:0.05. At this ratio, the elastase inhibitory effect, an indicator of wrinkle improvement, was 28% compared to the control. The antioxidant activity was 71.8% higher than the control. Additionally, NO formation was significantly suppressed by the extract complex. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, a whitening index, showed 24.4% improvement over the control. Finally, hydrogen peroxide-induced cytotoxicity was significantly inhibited following treatment with the extract complex.
Conclusion: The natural extract complex of H. rhamnoides, R. Fruticosus, and P. folium was found to have beneficial wrinkle improvement, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening effects, and has potential as a functional cosmetic material.
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KEYWORD
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Hippophae rhamnoides fruit, Rubus fruticosus leaf, Perillae folium leaf, Wrinkle improvement, Whitening
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